For truly long term results, we must look below the surface, says Penford. Using the latest research, she says the three key biochemical processes that impact the speed at which skin ages are reactive oxygen species (free radicals), matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and advanced glycation end-products (AGES). So what are these and what ingredients help to minimise their effects?

Reactive Oxygen Species

Reactive Oxygen Species are dangerous forms of oxygen molecules generated by UV rays and pollution. They attack and react with stable molecules within skin cells. This causes non-reversible damage to the cell, cross-links collagen and elastin (the cause of wrinkles) and lessens skin’s natural ability to repair itself.

Ingredients that work against them:

Antioxidants derived from vitamins such as A, C and E, polyphenols from white tea, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP – a highly stable, non-irritating form of vitamin C), dipotassium glycyrrhizate (licorice) and tocopheryl (vitamin E) work to deactivate, or quench, free radicals and create stable molecules, preventing damage to the cells.

Advanced glycation end-products

The same glucose (sugar) that provides energy for our cells can also react with proteins, including the skin’s collagen. This reaction results in the formation of advanced glycation end-products, which contribute to cross-linking of collagen protein fibres (which causes wrinkles), inflammation, inhibited skin cell growth and accelerated ageing.

Ingredients that work against them:

“The key ingredients which are causing a stir are ‘sugar traps’,” says Penford. These include soy proteins, glucosamine and specific peptides such as arginine and lysine, which intercept the sugar, bind to it and prevent it from reacting with the collagen protein in our skin.

Matrix metalloproteinases

Matrix metalloproteinases are enzymes activated by UV exposure or inflammation. They contribute to the breakdown of existing collagen while inhibiting the formation of new collagen. Long term activation of MMPs results in disorganisation and destruction of the skin matrix – two key characteristics of photo-aged skin.

Ingredients that work against them:

To control these destructive enzymes, look for peptides, MAP, retinyl palmitate (vitamin A) and powerful plant extracts that inhibit the formation of MMPs.