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Our resident grooming guru Lee Kynaston debunks some of the most common male grooming myths so that you can set your customers straight

Dandruff is caused by dry skin

Dandruff is actually caused by a tiny fungus called Malassezia globosa, which lives on our scalps without causing trouble – most of the time. Occasionally, however, it multiplies out of control, causing flaking of the skin, a process that’s often triggered by stress, changes in environment or bad diet. A whopping 50 per cent of us will suffer from dandruff at some point in our lives. Thankfully, it’s easily treated with shampoos containing zinc pyrithione or the anti-fungal agent ketoconazole.

You only need to wear a sunscreen when it’s sunny

It’s not just a week of sunbathing in Skiathos that damages the skin – even low-level, everyday exposure to UVA rays (the ones that cause ageing) can play a huge part in wrinkle formation, and we’re vulnerable to those rays even in the winter here in the UK. This explains why using a moisturiser with a built-in sunscreen is such a good idea for men of all ages.

Shaving your hair makes it grow back thicker and stronger

Many men mistakenly think that shaving their hair makes it grow back thicker, whether it’s on their head, face or – given the popularity of manscaping – on their chest, stomach or buttocks. It won’t, of course. Hair only seems to grow back thicker because shaving leaves the hairs with thick, blunt ends.

There’s nothing you can do to make fine or thinning hair look thicker

There’s actually a lot customers can do to make their hair appear a little thicker, including getting the right hair cut (shorter, textured styles look better on guys with thinning hair) and using thickening shampoos that contain special polymers to plump up the hair shafts. Blow-drying will instantly give hair more volume, too, while styling the hair with lighter, dryer products such as gels, sprays and mousses can make it look thicker.

You don’t need to moisturise if you’ve got oily skin

It’s easy to assume that skin that’s oily doesn’t need moisturising, but oil and water are two separate things, remember, so even the oiliest of skins can still be dehydrated – and in need of a moisturiser. Men with this skin type simply need to opt for one of the many oil-free or mattifying moisturisers now on offer.

Shaving “against the grain” gives a better result

While shaving against the direction of hair growth does tend to deliver a smoother shave, it’s also a recipe for ingrown hairs, razor burn and damaged follicles. For a better shave, it’s always worth following the direction of hair growth and using short, gentle strokes, especially around the neck, where irritation is most common.

Lips can become addicted to lip balm

Balms might be useful for lips because lips don’t have any oil glands of their own, but they can’t become addicted to them any more than a face can become addicted to moisturiser. If there’s any truth in this myth, it’s possibly because some flavoured balms encourage wearers to lick and bite their lips, which can cause moisture loss via the evaporation of saliva. The balm will then need to be reapplied. That’s why I always suggest that men opt for unflavoured lip balms.

Men only inherit baldness from their mums

The good news is that this isn’t true. The bad news is that the gene thought to be responsible for male pattern baldness can be inherited from both sides of the family. Gulp.

Men’s skincare products are just women’s ones in different packaging

Men’s skin is quite different from women’s. Apart from being slightly more acidic, oilier, 16 per cent thicker and hairier, it also has more collagen, which means that it ages differently. This is why men should use products that are specially formulated for their skin, rather than pinch their girlfriend’s or wife’s stuff.

Aftershave is the perfect post-shave product

Aftershaves may have been the traditional way to round off a shave, but we now know that their high alcohol content means they can easily irritate freshly shaven skin, causing it to become dry and tight. Soothing (and moisturising) aftershave balms are a much better option. Aftershaves still have their place, though. The fact that they’re weaker than eau de toilettes means they’re great for when a man wants to smell good without his fragrance coming across as overpowering.

Washing your face with hand soap is fine

The alkaline nature of most soaps means that every time they’re used, they neutralise the skin’s own slightly acidic protective mantle, leaving it feeling dry, tight and prone to premature ageing. Liquid face washes based on skin-friendly glycerin are a much better option and won’t strip the skin of its natural oils.

Most men have sensitive skin

If surveys are to be believed, virtually all men have sensitive skin. The reality, of course, is that few have truly sensitive skin – the type that requires special treatment and special products – they just think they do because of the irritation caused by the daily shave and washing with soap and water.